For travelers flying into the tiny island of Thitu, the reality of China’s territorial ambition becomes instantly clear. There they are: dozens of Chinese ships surrounding a speck of land that a few hundred Filipinos call home.

       For now though, life is mostly peaceful and slow on the island. Small wooden fishing boats line a white sand beach on the eastern shore. Rough houses pieced together from plywood, scrap lumber and tarps are the main form of shelter. On a recent evening, a few people gathered near the beach to debone fish, while others waded into tide pools with fishing spears.

       But the calm belies the fact that Thitu is contested land. Nearby, China has stationed a flotilla of coast guard ships and maritime militia vessels. On a neighboring reef, it has constructed a military base whose lights shimmer at night like a city. The intensifying Chinese presence has startled the Philippines, which has occupied Thitu for nearly half a century. So it is upgrading its crumbling military facilities that lie on the island’s southern end.

       Advertisement

       SKIP ADVERTISEMENT

       And it is encouraging more Filipinos to move in, betting more residents will strengthen its claim to Thitu, which it calls Pag-asa, or hope, and reduce hostilities with China.

       Image

       Philippine troops on a lookout for Chinese ships sailing in the Spratlys, in June.

       Image

       Philippine soldiers awaiting the arrival of guests on Thitu, which is known as Pag-asa in the Philippines, in June.

       Subscribe to The Times to read as many articles as you like.