The ￡22 item, which looks like the grocer’s iconic central London -flagship store, was “the worst” -sampled by consumer group Which? The Hotel Chocolat Grand Advent Calendar, for ￡68, got the editor’s top choice for the variety and class of its chocolate. More than half of the panel would consider buying it for their partner and would love to have it bought for themselves.

       The more affordable ￡18 Butler’s Advent Calendar was rated highly for its stylish looks and the quality of the confectionary. The ￡25 Love Cocoa by James Cadbury Luxury Chocolate Truffle Charity Advent Calendar got an editor’s choice award with 2021-themed decorations on each window of the calendar, -featuring Captain Tom Moore, Joe Wicks and James Bond.

       Of the five gin advent calendars Which? tested, the Master of Malt’s Drinks by the Dram Premium Gin Advent Calendar (￡84.95) was top.

       It had high praise for its packaging and variety – with gins from around the world and small niche distilleries. At ￡35 cheaper, researchers praised the That Boutique-y Gin Company Advent Calendar (￡49.95) for its selection of UK bespoke distilleries and mix of sweet and dry gins.

       In the children’s section the Playmobil Pirate Island Advent Calendar (￡18.29), the Barbie Dreamtopia Advent Calendar (￡19.99) and Lego City Advent Calendar (￡19.99) took home the joint-top prize.

       Ele Clark, Which? retail editor, said: “With warnings there could be shortages this Christmas, many are shopping for festive essentials early.

       “It pays to do your homework when looking for an advent calendars, as the difference in quality and value between the best and worst examples in our tests was huge.”

       Fortnum & Mason declined to comment about its calendar.