KYOTO -- The entrance to Funaoka Onsen, a hot spring bath in the Nishijin neighborhood of Kyoto's Kita Ward, has an imposing "karahafu" gable that wouldn't look out of place at a Shinto shrine. Its origins go back to 1923, when the onsen was built as a bath attached to the two-story wooden restaurant and inn Funaokaro.

       The entrance to Funaoka Onsen, with its "karahafu" gable similar to those at Shinto shrines, is seen in Kyoto's Kita Ward on Oct. 20, 2021. (Mainichi/Tatsuya Onishi)=Click/tap photo for more images.

       To get permission to be called an onsen in Kyoto, which doesn't have natural hot springs, it installed Japan's first electric bath in 1933. It received approval as "special Funaoka onsen." Operations as a full-fledged public bath began soon after the war.

       In 2003, the national government registered its bathing rooms and changing facilities as tangible cultural properties. The wood-carved "ranma" transoms that surround the changing area include openwork depicting the parade at the Aoi Matsuri, one of Kyoto's major three festivals, among other images. On the ceiling is a sculpture portraying Kurama Tengu -- a creature of folklore -- teaching swordsmanship to Ushiwakamaru (young Minamoto no Yoshitsune, a 12th century warlord). The walls of the corridors connecting the changing and bathing rooms are adorned with colorful majolica tiles.

       The renovated bathing room alternates daily from being for men or women. In addition to its electric bath, it has a rich variety of bath types including a medicinal bath and an open-air bath. Even if it's not a natural hot spring, visitors can warm themselves up while soaking in the atmosphere of the Taisho (1912-1926) and Showa (1926-1989) eras.

       (Japanese original by Tatsuya Onishi, Osaka Photo Department)

       Beautiful colorful majolica tiles are seen in a corridor connecting the changing rooms to the baths at Funaoka Onsen in Kyoto's Kita Ward, on Oct. 20, 2021. (Mainichi/Tatsuya Onishi)=Click/tap photo for more images.

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       The Japanese version of this article was originally published on Nov. 14, 2021.

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       This series explores Japan's architectural wonders and secrets of yesteryear. Read more Retro Japan articles here.

       Retro Japan in Photos: Intricate interiors at Kyoto's historic Funaoka Onsen baths

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