GEORGE TOWN: If you swear by the coffee served at your favourite fancy cafe, perhaps it’s time to meet a “traditional barista” who operates from a pushcart.

       Everling Ang, who began helping out at the business about four decades ago, has kept the coffee pushcart exactly the way it was.

       Star attraction: Ang and Yong preparing classic coffee at the shop in Noordin Street, George Town. — LIM BENG TATT/The Star

       This means her customers get their caffeine shot amid a retro vibe.

       Mind you, Ang does not do lattes, cappuccinos or Americanos. Her offerings are the classic yesteryear richness of Malaysia’s distinctive kopitiam (coffee shops).

       And there is also her unique “Empat Rasa” (Four Flavours), which is a blend of coffee, tea, Milo and Nescafe.

       “We came up with the recipe during the pandemic,” said the 50-something Ang.

       She had to close the business for several months during the first movement control order.

       During that time, she experimented with new drinks, she said, chuckling at the recollection of how the drink came about.

       Ang attributes the success of her business to a steadfast reliance on a special blend of traditional local coffee powder.

       “I learnt coffee art from young, before it was even a trend.

       “My husband and I bonded over coffee. We operated at several places before ending up here,” she said, referring to the site at Noordin Street-Lorong Ceti junction.

       The couple, who have been married for over 30 years, have two daughters and a son.

       “All my children learned the skill from me and one of my daughters is keen to take over the business when I grow old,” she said.

       Like almost every other small business, Ang’s pushcart trade was affected by the pandemic.

       “But we are glad that our regular customers have stayed loyal.”

       Ang used to sell toasted bread as well, but this stopped following the pandemic.

       And to keep up with the times, Ang now sells her drinks in paper and plastic cups.

       “We used to only pack takeaways in plastic bags. Customers would opt for ‘ikat tepi’ or ‘ikat penuh’,” she said.

       “Ikat tepi” refers to the way the plastic bag is tied with a raffia string only on one side, hence, allowing the buyer to drink it on-the-go.

       “Ikat penuh” means the bag is fully tied and sealed.

       “With the help of my daughter, we now use paper cups for warm drinks and plastic cups for cold drinks.

       “By using cups, we can add our coffee art,” she said, adding that they usually draw a star or heart shape.

       Ang said although she and her husband Johnson Yong, 60, were fully vaccinated with booster shots, they had held off allowing their patrons to dine in.

       “We will wait for the situation to get better before accepting dine-ins again.

       “And since we are not tech-savvy, we only accept cash payments and do not use any delivery services,” she said.

       One of her customers, sales assistant Ashley Gan, 33, said: “I came earlier this morning. But I am here again for the second time as I wanted to get more for my colleagues to try. I love the taste and richness of the Milo drink.”

       Clerk Nurul Aqilah Ahmad Roslan, 24, said the traditional coffee flavour left her craving for more.

       “I am a coffee addict and I must have my daily caffeine fix,” she grinned.

       Nurul Aqilah, who is from Banting, Selangor, is in Penang for a holiday.

       “This is the second time I have visited the stall. I was here three years ago before the pandemic and I persuaded my husband to give it a try,” she said.

       Admin clerk Nurizatul Shuhada, 24, said she had been a regular customer since she was young.

       “I love the consistency of the drinks. I come here at least once a week.

       “I have tried every drink on the menu and the flavours have never disappointed me,” she said.