GOESAN, South Korea — The family van was loaded with a precious cargo — 11 brown plastic boxes filled with 150 pounds of kimchi that Ha Si-nae, her husband and three daughters had made with their own hands.“ We are all set until this time next year!... These pots of kimchi sustained them through the long winter and lean spring, when fresh vegetables were unavailable？... Ha used to get kimchi from her mother, a common practice among many younger Koreans living in big cities....